The largest independent, non-commercial, consumer-oriented resource on the Internet for owners, collectors and enthusiasts of fine wristwatches. Online since 1998. | ||||||||
|
||||||||
|
Feel free to discuss pricing and specific dealers. But 'for sale' postings, commercial solicitation and ads are not allowed. Full archive of all messages is accessible through options in the Search and Preferences features. Privacy, policies and administrivia are covered in the Terms of Use.
For the answer to the NUMBER #1 most frequently asked question here--for details or value of a specific older Omega watch you have--go to: Tell Me About My Omega. | Learn more about How To Include Photos and HTML In Your Postings. | To contact someone with a question not relevant to other readers of the forum, please click on their email address and contact them privately. |
Seamaster - two questiones to anyone who might have an answer:
1) When determined of purchaseing a SeamasterPro for its said ruggedness/tightness, and the purchase is not in terms of getting the best from a horological point of view (for that purpose there are a lot of other no-sports possibilities) - just a good sportwatch that you like; Is there any significant experiences comparing the mechanical and the quarts movement to power this timepiece? I am talking of which of them that are likely to have any working interferences.
2) Is it possible/relevant to replace the sceleton hands of the SeamasterPro (not the GMT or the new limited one) with solid (luminience filled) ones? Or perhaps someone can convince me that they (sceletons) are sufficient readable?
Just this, thanks, New2 (previously very sceptical to the Seamaster, but I'm on my way)...
Chronocentric and zOwie site design and contents (c) Copyright 1998-2005, Derek Ziglar; Copyright 2005-2008, Jeffrey M. Stein. All rights reserved. Use of this web site constitutes acceptance of the terms of use. | CONTACT | TERMS OF USE | TRANSLATE |