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The largest independent, non-commercial, consumer-oriented resource on the Internet for owners, collectors and enthusiasts of fine wristwatches. Online since 1998. | |||||||
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Feel free to discuss pricing and specific dealers. But 'for sale' postings, commercial solicitation and ads are not allowed. Full archive of all messages is accessible through options in the Search and Preferences features. Privacy, policies and administrivia are covered in the Terms of Use.
For the answer to the NUMBER #1 most frequently asked question here--for details or value of a specific older Omega watch you have--go to: Tell Me About My Omega. | Learn more about How To Include Photos and HTML In Your Postings. | To contact someone with a question not relevant to other readers of the forum, please click on their email address and contact them privately. |
Just because you're buying from an AD doesn't necessarily guarantee that you'll get everything you're supposed to, or that you'll get a good discount, or that the person you're dealing with knows diddly squat about Omega watches.
There are several people in here, including me, who got a relatively expensive Seamaster chrono from a dealer, and either all three cards weren't included, or the serial numbers on the cards weren't right, or there were no half links with the watch, which means that it was USED and then resold as new by an AD. As far as I can tell, I had an AD run a used gray market 2296.50 in on me as NEW with only the warranty card, and that card could have come with any watch. The watch broke less than three weeks later, and it was two months of agony before I finally got my money back, and this was from a licensed AD.
Point being, you can still go wrong going to some (or perhaps a lot of) AD's to buy an Omega. On the other hand, I personally think you CANNOT go wrong going to the preferred AD that a lot of us know about in this forum. You get exactly what you order, the product is generally never even displayed to customers, and the owner can answer ANY question you have on Omega watches, and he can fit the band to your wrist over the phone. In addition, unless you live in DC, you avoid the sales tax, which is a fair chunk of change. Going to the AD that is geographically closest to you will probably mean you'll pay sales tax, it's an odds on bet you won't get a full 30% discount, and it's at least 10:1 odds against you that the person you're dealing with could tell you the movement caliber of any particular watch you're looking at.
C. 3301 ??? Huh??
2500C movement?? Whazzat?
Valjoux. Gesundheit??
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